Category: Japanese Culture

(img from : http://www.syokuninkai.com/products/list.php?category_id=68 )

When you go to a special party, what will you wear? One of recommendations should be, of course, kimono, which will attract other guests for the gorgeousness. However, you may think the patterns of kimono are too conspicuous to wear, especially if you are a novice of kimono. It certainly needs some courage to wear kimono at first. Is there not some kimono perfect to such people? Of course, yes. Let’s try Tokyo somé-komon.

What is Tokyo somé-komon?

It is a method to damask fabric with pattern paper. It is also called  “Edo-komon” and it is better to think that Tokyo somé-komon is the official name designated as one of the Japanese Traditional Crafts, and Edo-komon is a kind of brand name of that. “Komon” means “small patterns”, and as it suggests, this method provides so fine and small patterns on fabric that they are quite seen as plain at a glance; the kimono of Tokyo somé-komon is modest but is simultaneously attractive and prestigious enough as kimono.

The history of Tokyo somé-komon

The start of Tokyo somé-komon is the Muromachi era of Japan, approximately 14-16th century, but it was not until the Edo era, 17-19th century, that it became broadly known to people; many samurai in Edo began to put small patterns on their formal clothes, Kami-shimo. Most feudal domain had their unique pattern, Sadamé-komon, to put on as a crest of the clan. Meanwhile, the samurai in Edo era were not allowed to splurge, and therefore, they could not wear peacockish clothes. The fine patterns that look plain at first sight allowed them to enjoy wearing attractive dress secretly.

In the middle period of the Edo era, the pattern came to be loved by women as well, and many new patterns were given a birth to. Some of them were made as an auspicious pattern for play on words or lore. One of such examples is a pattern named “Hatsu-yumé”, which means the first dream of the New Year in Japanese. It has Mt. Fuji, hawks and eggplants on the pattern, for a lore says that these three are auspicious if you see in the hatsu-yumé.

In the Meiji era, the middle period of 19th century to the early 20th century, samurai became de facto extinct, for the Meiji government abandoned the social class; therefore, Kami-shimo also became obsolete. In addition to these change, the trend of the nation was toward Westernization and many people preferred to wear such clothes of the West. However, the small patterns once loved by samurai survived this difficulty as a pattern for ceremonial kimono for ladies.

In these days, the kimono of Tokyo somé-komon is mainly seen at wedding parties, Japanese tea ceremonies, special dinners, concerts and so on. On the other hand, it is true that more and more people are becoming unaware of the beauty of kimono now, so some people make something other than kimono with Tokyo somé-komon, such as scarf.

What makes Tokyo somé-komon so exquisite?

As mentioned above, the patterns of Tokyo somé-komon is so fine that it’s almost plain. For example, one of such patterns, named “Goku-zamé”, has as many as 800 to 1,000 dots inside a 3-cm square. How can this be possible?

Tokyo somé-komon is the combination of making the pattern paper and dying fabric with the paper, both of which require exquisite skills to accomplish; this ignited the spirit of competition of the craftsmen in the Edo era. Kata-ya, the maker of pattern paper, strived to make so fine pattern paper that Somé-ya, the dyer with the pattern paper, can’t well handle. At the same time, Somé-ya endeavored to make full use of such pattern paper, as if saying, “the pattern is too easy to dye, can’t you make more intricate one?” This chain of competition and outdoing each other rendered Tokyo somé-komon one-of-a-kind pattern of kimono.

However, too many craftsmen have gone out of the business so far, some people say. Tokyo somé-komon, the perfect combination of two greatest skills, definitely requires the both experts. Now, one of remaining Somé-ya says, “These days, the quality of pattern paper became less good than before. I hope that the technology should be brought down to the next generation.”

When to wear Tokyo somé-komon?

Actually, kimono of komon are generally not good to wear at formal events. When you wear kimono at such events, you should make sure the pattern of the kimono should not be upside down. Many “komon” patterns do not have upside nor downside, so this is not suitable as clothes for ceremonial event. However, because of the history mentioned above, Tokyo somé-komon is exclusively allowed to put on at such events. On the whole, the more formal the party is, the finer the pattern should be, for the finer the pattern is, the more formal and prestigious it is.

One thing you should remember is that there is another Tokyo somé-komon brand, Tokyo osharé-komon. This line produces creative patterns for much more people, so most of them are not good for formality.

How to wear Tokyo somé-komon?

In order to look nice in Tokyo somé-komon, what you should consider is what color you should wear. But, there are various colors in Tokyo somé-komon. What color should we choose first?

All of all, the color you should wear is the one you want to. Or, you can also choose the obi to fasten your waist first. If you choose the obi of the color similar to your favorite Tokyo somé-komon, your style will be chic. On the other hand, choosing the one of the opposite color will make you more flowery and conspicuous.

If you are completely at a loss about what to choose, the modern trend is pastel-colored one with modest(-like) pattern. Such kimono is perfect for many occasions, including some special parties or formal events. So, how about wearing Tokyo somé-komon and attracting other guests at your next special party? They will ask you, “Your plain kimono is so nice,” and you should say, “Actually this is not quite plain. This is called ‘Tokyo somé-komon, and you can see the fine patterns at a closer look. Will you?” Oh, you have a good excuse to get closer to an attractive person, don’t you?

References

http://www.ins-web.co.jp/tsk/senshoku-kumiai.htm
http://kururi.net/book/komon/edokomon.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%B0%8F%E7%B4%8B

調べよう日本の伝統工業　３関東の伝統工業
日本の伝統的織りもの、染めもの

Introduction

When it comes to talking about kimono, the history and variations, however, often seem to elude us: we tend to only talk about their appearance at first glance or about the rareness. For example, so few people (including Japanese people!) understand the difference between “Honba Oshima Tsumugi” and “Murayama Oshima Tsumugi”, both of which have very intricate and beautiful design and sleek texture. Well, this time, let’s put a spotlight on “Murayama Oshima Tsumugi”, famous and exquisite cloth of kimono.

What is “Oshima Tsumugi”?

As you have noticed, both of the cloth mentioned above has the same letters, “Oshima Tsumugi”, which indicates the cloth named “Oshima Tsumugi” has two kinds of that. In order to talk about Murayama one, we have to look at Honba one first, actually.

“Oshima” means “big island” in Japanese in general and “Amami Oshima” in particular here. Amami Oshima is located in Kyusyu district in Japan and the blue sea that almost melts into the sky is so beautiful. It is said that the island is the closest island to the heaven, and the people there are so kind. Many visitors repeat all the same phrase: “It was like I was in the seventh. I will visit there again for sure.”

But I digress. Splendid materials to knit wearing were found in this island; so making clothes was one of their lifeworks and the clothes were their casual dress. However, in 1720, a local government in that time ordered them not to wear the native clothes, for the officials of the government can exclusively wear them. This was the start of the export of “Oshima Tsumugi” to the main island of Japan.

After landing on the main island, “Oshima Tsumugi” became popular for the beauty and high quality, and in 1870, many people in the main island of Japan also came to wear and enjoy the unique design, although it was considered as luxury then. Around in 1920, the people in the main island started produce their cloth, which is very similar to “Oshima Tsumugi”—this is what we call “Murayama Oshima Tsumugi” for the resemblance and the name of the place where the material is obtained. By the way, “Honba” means “real”, “authentic” or “bona fide”; does it mean that “Murayama Oshima Tsumugi” is a fake? Of course not. No way.

Own story of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi

In contrast to the “luxuriness” of Honba Oshima Tsumugi, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi flourished as inexpensive cloth for casual dress, which is somehow ironically the original purpose of Honba Oshima Tsumugi. In 1948, an association for Murayama Oshima Tsumugi was founded and it strived to be recognized as a brand. During Japan’s economic boom after WW2, the demand for Murayama Oshima Tsumugi as inexpensive casual dress was pretty high; however, in the process, much more inexpensive cloth made in Korea for kimono, which is so-called Korean Oshima, emerged and was easily replaced with Murayama Oshima Tsumugi. In 1980, the population of the people who manufactured Murayama Oshima Tsumugi dropped terribly and the many wholesalers ceased handling it.

After the shock, some people got together to restore and preserve the beauty of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi. As their familiar dress, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi developed in a different way from Honba Oshima Tsumugi. One of the characteristics of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is the variation of unique patterns, which was possible as a result of the combination of many other techniques in the main island of Japan, and such an own character of the cloth attracted many people enough to keep the culture to live even today. Now Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is alive as beautiful and precious cloth for kimono that represents Japanese historical culture; yes, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi eventually followed all the same way of its parent, Honba Oshima Tsumugi. Now, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is not a fake or mimic of Honba Oshima Tsumugi: it is another Oshima Tsumugi.

The difference between the two Oshima Tsumugi

As mentioned above, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi and Honba Oshima Tsumugi are completely different cloth, but the appearances of the two Oshima Tsumugi resemble each other so close that it is difficult to distinguish the two; however, if you look into them much more close enough, you’ll find the difference: the seam. The seam of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi looks straight, whereas that of Honba Oshima Tsumugi does the shape of T or the sign of plus, “+”.

Meanwhile, the cloth of Honba Oshima Tsumugi has the certificate tag, whose motif is a globe or flag (which depends on the place of production of the cloth). When you buy cloth that looks like some kind of Oshima Tsumugi, check the tag.

In addition to these differences, the cloth of Honba Oshima Tsumugi is not used for making an “ensemble” of kimono for woman. It means, if you see an ensemble of some parts of kimono for women, which looks Oshima Tsumugi, it must be Murayama Oshima Tsumugi. However, it may be possible to order such kimono of Honba Oshima Tsumugi now.

The current Murayama Oshima Tsumugi

Murayama Oshima Tsumugi started as a popular edition of Honba Oshima Tsumugi, but it has developed its own way of evolving since then. After the clothes of Japanese people became westernized and the preciousness of kimono began to be rediscovered, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is getting as precious. If you love kimono, it may be a good time to be particular about the cloth of your kimono.

Aren’t you interested in kimono that much and you feel yourself out of the picture? If so, you should visit some skillful tailors; they may tailor your suits or coats with Oshima Tsumugi! The durability of kimono is of course due to its cloth; so the coat and suit made of Oshima Tsumugi must last forever. The patterns on the surface must attract many people around you as well.

Now, the two Oshima Tsumugi are alive as one of the most prestigious cloth of Japanese kimono. When you order your kimono or suit, you should ask: “Excuse me, is Oshima Tsumugi available today?

References

• http://ameblo.jp/kinari2008/entry-11965729033.html
• https://sites.google.com/site/honbaamamioshimatsumugi/home/tsumugi/tsumugirekishi
• https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%A4%A7%E5%B3%B6%E7%B4%AC
• http://www.motoji.co.jp/oshima/history/index.htmhttps://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%91%E5%B1%B1%E5%A4%A7%E5%B3%B6%E7%B4%AC
• http://www.tokyochuokai.or.jp/jirei/edo/murayama.html
• 日本の伝統的織もの
• 染めもの日本の歴史100

If one of your friends wears a yellow suit, you might well think that it is too flamboyant unless he or she is so glamorous an icon of fashion. However, if what they wear is yellow kimono, your friend must be attractive without doubt. So, what if the yellow kimono were even special one? Honba Kihachijo is such really special cloth of kimono. The “Ki” in “Kihachijo” means yellow, not energy; well, it is made by very energetic people, though.

( image from : http://www.online-kimono.jp/products/10806.html )

What is the yellow of Honba Kihachijo?

The homeland of Honba Kihachijo lies 300 km of Tokyo; the island is named “Hachijo-jima”. There are abundant of tropical plants, including palm trees and hibiscus in the island far from the main island of Japan, and you can enjoy many seasonal flowers in the colorful landscape. However, what they use to make the beautiful yellow fabric is not such a tropical plant; actually, it’s a kind of almost nameless weeds, which grow even in the main island of Japan. This is called “Kobuna-gusa”. They found this weed dye beautifully yellow, and cultivate this plant as one of their precious treasure.

The yellow from Kobuna-gusa, which the islander calls “Hachijo Kariyasu”, is said to last for 3 generations, and the more you wear and love the yellow, the yellower and more beautiful the kimono becomes. Of course, the strings to weave the fabric are also strong enough to last almost forever.

The history of Honba Kihachijo

Hachijo-jima was thought to be “the island where even a bird does not perches”, which means the nature of the island was so wild. However, the islanders were originally great at making cloth, for they had communicated well with the people who came from the main island. In 14th century, they began to offer their fabric to the tycoon in the main island. Because of the perfection of their fabric, even many biggest figures from the main island tried to control the manufactures.

In early 17 century, the Edo era in Japan, they began to offer their beautiful yellow fabric to the tycoon, the Tokugawa. This offer had lasted for more than 300 years, during which they are thought to have made almost 300,000 Kihachijo.

By the way, yellow was thought to be a purifying color in the Edo era. So, many doctors preferred the color to put himself in. On the other hand, the color was also the best clothes among low-class samurai or such women.

But I digress. Now, what made Honba Kihachijo famous? It was a play of Japanese ballad drama, “Joruri”. In the play named “Koimusume Mukashi Hachijo”, the yellow kimono of the island was used as the costume: the dawn of skyrocketing popularity of Honba Kihachijo. Actually, the term, “Kihachijo”, used to refer to general yellow-stripped or -checkered fabric, but by the popularity of the yellow, the term came to refer to only the fabric made in the island. Also, the name of the island, “Hachijo-jima”, is derived from this “Kihachijo”. Yes, this yellow fabric saved and established the whole island indeed.

Various Kihachijo, including not yellow ones

If you look for Honba Kihachijo in market, you rarely find the plain yellow fabric of Honba Kihachijo. This is because it is so difficult to dye not blocky with Kobuna-gusa that the fabric of Honba Kihachijo is mainly striped or checkered. These patterns are one of the reasons why many people love Honba Kihachijo: it’s modern and so fashionable.

Actually, there are Kihachijo, whose main color is not yellow in spite of the name: they are mainly brown or black. The ways of dying of these two fabrics are also different, and the black one is another special fabric for the method. In this case, the strings to weave the fabric were dyed by a plant, ” Castanopsis sieboldii” in the scientific name, and then by mud. Through dipping into mud, the tannin of the plant and the iron of mud are conbined to dye the strings black. This black fabric is called “Kurohachijo” (Kuro means black, as you guess), and it is all the more precious because it takes a long time to make one for the time-consuming ingredients and method. However, here is one thinkg to note. There is the other “Kurohachijo”, which is made in Itsuka-ichi, Tokyo. If you look for the former one, you should ask for “Kurohachijo” of “Kihachijo” (Confusing?).

By the way, the “Honba” in “Honba Kihachijo” means “authentic” or “bona fide”. Is it another Kihachijo? Yes, it is. It is the one made in Akita prefecture; this Kihachijo is dyed by rugosa roses, not by Kobuna-gusa. Of course, it does not mean this Akita Kihatchijo is a fake. Don’t get it wrong.

How to be fashionable in the yellow kimono

Perhaps, you may well think: Okay, fine. But yellow kimono? It’s too vivid! Maybe you are true. Yellow and checkered (or striped) kimono must be conspicuous and some of you may feel it embarrassing. However, Honba Kihachijo is too good to miss. How should we wear this historical and traditional masterpiece? The answer is “Obi”.

Obi is a Japanese belt or band to wrap and squeeze your waist on Kimono. Choosing right obi is totally necessary to be fashionable in Honba Kihachijo.

For example, if you choose brown or black one, your total figure will be less conspicuous and chic. With red or green one, the style will be much more eye-catching, so it must be perfect in speech or when you stand in front of big audience to receive their attention.

If you want to wear it in Western style, it may be possible to use the fabric to tailor your suit. Of course, the yellow-checkered suit may be perfect for very limited people, but how about making your vest with this fabric for instance? Imagine you have vivid yellow in your black or gray jacket. Now, you have to think about the tie and handkerchief to go with. There are so many things to perfect your style, but it is a part of amusement to be fashionable, isn’t it?

References

https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%BB%84%E5%85%AB%E4%B8%88
http://maminyan.com/kimono/kihachi.html
http://www.f2.dion.ne.jp/~juni/rekishi.htm
http://www.so-bien.com/kimono/brand/kurohatizyou.html

日本の伝統的織りもの、染めもの
日英対訳　日本の歴史100

( image from : https://www.kaitori-kimono.biz/topics/20140404kimono-new.html )

Many conservative people insist that a suit should be the best wearing to go to their business appointment and also expect others to follow “suit”. However, more and more people are becoming fond of expressing themselves through their fashion and the way they are, and what to wear the day is their most important issue for them. If you are one of such fashionable people but watched carefully by conservative business partners, one of your options is wear Tama-ori.

What’s Tama-ori?

Tama-ori is one of traditional manufacturing of fabrics in Japan, mainly practiced in Hachioji, Tokyo. You may well think, “Traditional manufacturing of fabrics in Japan? I can’t wear kimono for my business meeting.” Don’t worry; even if your client is not tolerant to your kimono style, Tama-ori is still your perfect option. Actually, Tama-ori is historically recognized as “natty dress for such men” and applied to making a necktie, scarf and stole now.

The natty history of Tama-ori

Tama-ori is not a name for one certain method to weave a fabric; it is the collective term for 5 weaving methods developed near Tokyo: Omeshi-ori, Tsumugi-ori, Fu-tsu-ori, Kawari-tsuzuré, and Mojiri-ori.

The hometown of Tama-ori, Hachioji, has been called “City of mulberry” for a long time. Mulberry was feed for silkworms in the region, which produce the greatest cocoon for the fabric. Because of the convenient location near Tokyo (or Edo, in the time), the people practiced and developed the method to make greater fabrics according to the need of the city people. On the other hand, they also made efforts to preserve the traditional methods, and this gave a birth to the unique fabric made by the eclectic mixed method of the old and the new. They called “Tama-ori” some historical methods of weaving then.

As most of the population in Edo were male, Tama-ori was loved as the brand of natty gentlemen. Although it has many fans of ladies, of course, this historical background turned Tama-ori into the lasting fabric for gentlemen even to today.

Five weavings of Tama-ori

Now, let’s delve into the 5 weaving methods. The first one is Omeshi-ori.

The feature of Omeshi-ori is its ruck. This special crease is called “Shibo” in the Japanese technical term. The yarn is twisted 3,000 times per 1 meter, and clockwise-twisted one and anticlockwise-twisted one are used alternately to make the ruck. This is the most famous weaving of Tama-ori.

The second one is Tsumugi-ori”, whose surface is lumpy. This lumpiness comes from the special yarn used. One yarn to make Tsumugi-Ori is called “Tama-ito”, which is obtained by the combination of two cocoons of as many silkworms to be striated: the other yarn is called “Tsumugi-ito”, and this is made from the floss silk of silkworms.

The third one is “Fu-tsu-ori”: this weaving is two-layered, and the ground color of the surface is the main color of the back. It means, you can enjoy this weaving reversibly.

Kawari-tuzuré has a really intricate design. This weaving method uses many and as colorful yarns to produce the greatest pattern on the surface.

The last one, Mojiri-ori, is almost transparent. No, not exactly transparent, but this weaving dare to leave some rooms between yarns; therefore, it gives clearness and transparency.

The modern Tama-ori

As mentioned above, Tama-ori has been recognized as gentlemen’s special fabric since the Edo era (17th century), and this image is still true today; many Tama-ori manufacturers weave neckties, which are mainly for business”men”, to venture to say. Tama-ori neckties started to be wove in the Taisho era (from 1912-1926), which is relatively recent, but the techniques and designs loved in Edo were wholly employed to make the modern one.

Of course, in these days, Tokyo is recognized as one of the most fashion-savvy city, where many international clothing brands hold the exhibition of their collection, as held in Paris of France or Milan of Italy. Such sensitive feeling to what we call fashion is also applied to Tama-ori products, but at the same time, they never forget the history and tradition built in Tama-ori. The eclectic mixture of the old and the new is never lost.

In this regard, Tama-ori has two brands in the main line. One is “Kuwa-no-miyako (桑の都)” and the other “Mulberry City”. Actually, Mulberry City is translated into Kuwa-no-miyako in Japanese. Mulberry is kuwa, and City miyako.

Kuwa-no-miyako was named after an old Japanese poem which depicted the landscape of the hometown of this fabric, and this line produces mainly Japanese wearing items, like kimono. On the other hand, Mulberry City produces Western wearing items, like neckties and scarfs of Tama-ori for more daily use. Daily use? Yes, it’s more affordable and inexpensive to get such accessories than to purchase traditional kimono.

Who should pass down this culture to the future?

The next generation should be nurtured. Some artisans of Tama-ori, while weaving greatest neckties, teach children at nearby schools as volunteer. This experience may produce the next master of Tama-ori, who will succeed this legend.

However, of course, it is so important for us to support the activity and culture like this by wearing the products. All we have to do is to wear the special necktie for our next business meeting, which will impress our clients and may drive them into purchasing their one.

Or, you can even order your original necktie through the official site. You can make your own one with your name on it, or it is also possible to give such a one-of-a-kind (literally) necktie to somebody special.

If you are the president of your company, it’s also so nice an idea to give your workers the special necktie with the company logo on it as a token of your appreciation for them. The appreciating speech should be like this: “Thank you for your all hard effort on the company! I have a special present for you all, Tama-ori Necktie! Tama-ori is Japanese historical weaving of the eclectic mixture of yesterday and tomorrow, and our company also should cherish yesterday and look forward to tomorrow like Tama-ori! Cheers!”

References

http://hachioji.mypl.net/mp/work_hachioji/?sid=2667
http://www.weblio.jp/content/%E5%A4%9A%E6%91%A9%E7%B9%94
http://mulberry-city.com/#id0（リンク先ではBGMが鳴ります）

日本の伝統的織りもの、染めもの
日英対訳　日本の歴史100

( image from : http://nibutani.jp/artisan/a_hiramura.html )

1. The “Attus (アットゥシ)”

The “Attus” are traditional clothes of Ainu people（アイヌ民族）. Ainu are the people or ethnic groups that has been living in the north Island near Japanese main land, Hokkaido（北海道）, Kurile（千島列島） and Sakhalin Islands（樺太島）. Their hunting and gathering ways of life have gotten many scholarly attentions in many academic fields for long period of time.
Winter time, those regions become incredibly cold. The snow start covering the land from November and the severe blizzard blows, Ainu have been long facing those vast snowy fields.
Ainu have been wearing Attus clothes for long time. But not like the past centuries, those traditional Attus wearing Ainu people cannot be seen anywhere in Japan. They have been mixed with immigrants from main lands, and spread throughout many parts of Northern regions. In Hokkaido only, there believed to be higher population density in the Shiretoko peninsula（知床半島）, the north eastern lumpy parts of Hokkaido.
Remarkably, the Attus varies much not only by base materials but also by regions and designs. The materials varies from the animal skin（獣皮）, fish skin（魚皮）, to bark fibers（樹皮）, glass fibers（草皮）and cottons（木綿）.

2. Varietal Uniqueness

After arrival the cotton by the cargo ships which sailed the Japan Sea during the Edo period, the variety of “Attus” were flourished. The Varieties are so many, and their categories are still under debates.
Varietal uniqueness of Attus starts from the garment of animal skins. This include animal skins of Japanese bear, dear, dogs, seals, sea otter（ラッコ）, pacific salmon（鮭）, and a trout（鱒）. The bark and glass fibers are also interesting. This includes elm spp（ニレ科）, linden, Japanese elm, and nettles（イラクサ）.
After arrival of cotton, the many Varieties of Attus arose. In The middle Edo era（江戸時代中葉）, when Matsumae(松前藩), the one federal domain dealt trading with Ainu, shipped the cotton clothes. Since the cottons are suitably warm in those cold regions, and quickly distributed to Hokkaido Ainu regions. The amount of exported cotton clothes drastically increased by time, and they were spread out. The remnant cotton Attus are more than others in number. The followings 4 catgories are those different Attus based on cotton usage.

• Chinjiri(チンヂリ). The Chinjiri was the name given for the Attus garments with embroidery. The clothes embroidered just by few colored cottons applique.
• Chikarakarape（チカラカラぺ）. Chikarakarape was the name given for the Attus garments with embroidered black and dark blues applique on Cotton garments.
• Kaparamipu (カパラミプ) . Kaparamipu was the name given for the Attus garments with wide white cut-out appliques. The white covers most of garments. They were used for cemetery and rituals.
• Lunpe (ルンぺ). Lumpe was the name given for the Attus garments with narrow strips of applique cloth patchwork. The narrow striped appliques are sewn around the front opening of garments.

The basic style of Ainu was with those half-length Japanese coat type Attus with other Accessories which include aprons（前掛け）, hand protectors（手甲）, gaiters（脚絆）, sword carrying sashes（刀鞘）, head band（鉢巻）, waist sashes（腰帯）.

3. Weaving（紡織）, Applique（アップリケ）, and Embroidery techniques（刺繍法）

The shape of Attus is just as a half-length Japanese coat type, but there are many steps of making. This includes 1). The fiber collection and its breaching, 2). Warping and weaving, 3). Sewing, Appliques, and Embroidery. The following processes are the guidance for the bark fiber type traditional Attus making described by Yoshimoto in “The Clothes of the Ainu People”.

1). Collection of fibers.

To make the traditional Attus, the bark of elm tree spp (オヒョウ) is used. The best time for collecting elm barks come after the rainy seasons of early summer when there are much more waters inside the barks. Then peeling the barks and soaked into the nearby ponds for approximately 10 days. After 10 days of soaking, the darts and impurities would wash off by clear water in the river and several layers would be peeled until the layers become one single thin sheet. Those thin layer then would be dried until they are breached by sunshine. Eventually the color of peeled thin bark layer become colorless white.

2). Warping & weaving

The dried thin layers then would be stripped by fingers to single lines. The end of obtained lines are tied together, and the line become long strings. Those long strings are then wound to the wooden pole and cloth beam, so that the lines are ready to be woven. Walking again and again those wooden poles and cloth beam. After setting up the warp line, the heddle(綜絖) is set, and then start weaving with loom（織機).

3). Sewing, Applique, Embroidery.

The lines are straightly woven to the fabrics, and those fabrics are then cut and sew together for basic shapes of Attus (half-length Japanese coat type). After the shape of Attus are sewn, then other dark woven cotton clothes are cut into the desired figure and sewn together as applique. The potions of applique is then decorated by embroidery.
Attus registered as Japanese traditional craft is called Nibutani Attus（二風谷アットゥシ）where the few products of Attus craftsmen are still produced in small scale.

References

岡本吉右衛門（1993）「アイヌの衣装」京都書院美術双書。
吉本忍（1993）「アットゥシ衣の製作技術」『アイヌシモリ－民族文様から見たアイヌの世界』国立民族学博物館。
財団法人アイヌ文化振興・研究推進機構『アイヌ生活文化再現マニュアル、織る－樹皮衣』。発行同法人。